PPHA Forums
Predator Hunting => Gear Bag => Topic started by: bigben on December 27, 2010, 01:03:36 PM
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I ordered this light the end of November. the Sunday before rifle season opened. I received it on Tuesday last week the 22st. I was out of town though till Friday the 24th so I really didn't get to mess with this light till the night of the 24th. I ordered it from a company dino direct and I received the light, two batts, and a charger for 43.00 dollars. The shipping was free so that could have been why it took so long to get it. They quoted 7-14 business days and they were a day over the 14 business days. I ordered two mounts from deal extreme. They are the exact same mounts the kill light xlr250 comes with. The difference in the lights visually is very small. There is a few differences esthetically though. Not major differences but enough to the trained eye to see there is a difference. I wonder though how many differences are in the kill lights?
I charged the batts Friday most of the day. Sat night I was messing around with it out in the fields around home. The beam is tighter then the predator light and the kill lights beam. Almost like a laser beam. When placed on a wall 8 feet away the spot is around 2" in diameter where the predator light is around 4" in diameter. The beam is a off white beam. Not the blueish beam some of the led lights throw. There is two intensity's on the light. I never got the tactical switch with it so I just have the tailcap switch. The sequence is as follows. off -> high -> low -> off. It is a bit backwards from most lights where they ramp up from being the lowest setting to the highest. The light is advertised as being 230 lumens on high but have seen claims that it is 260 on high as well. I do not know what this translates to in candlepower. But it is extremely bright. Looking through a scope I can pick trees and stumps out at 300 yds. I put a butler creek flip up scope cover on it that is painted with red dykem. I now have a red light and a white light if I want it. With the red filter down over the led 100yd ID should be possible. With the white light 300 yd ID is more then possible with a scope. I have been seeing people claim 200 + yd id claims on red fox with some red lights. I have come to the conclusion that either their eyesight is way better then most humans, or they do not know how far these animals are in the dark, or they are ID'ing on the way the animal is moving. This year at the Expo I seen how some where surprised at how hard it was to id targets that where not moving. It is extremely difficult so that leads me to believe that many do their id'ing through a scope and/or by noticing how the animal is moving. The human eye can only see so well.
I have not hunted with this light yet. I do not know if the burn time is different from the kill light. I do know the batts I received with the light are different then in the one dad's using. mine are discharge protected and cannot die from letting them burn too long. I am under the assumption that the kill lights are not like this. I plan on checking back in at the end of the season with my thoughts on this light. So far though I would buy another one in a heart beat. I am very impressed with this light. It appears to be well made and I am very sure I got a deal. I am thinking about buying another one but from another company.
(http://www1.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_16538_1.jpg)
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It looks kind of like a Kill Light...Maybe when you do Dykem it up or use a red pop cover...That intense beam will diminish a bit.. I know from hitting predator with a white intense light they run off..That's what I like about the Kill Light XLR 250 the red beam is spread out...I recently compared one to the Cabelas LED shooting light.. You could see just how it spread out across the wall surface that the Kill light will light up a wider area... I think this light you have will work for a rifle light at extreme distances with the red filtering. I will be anxious to hear how it works out for you in the field...Thank you for sharing you info with us..
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Yeah but there is two settings on this light. A high and a low.
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Glad you like it.....yes the stuff coming from china takes forever,thats the bad part.(besides that it comes from china)
As for the two Kill lights I've had they were both different,as far as inside parts.
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thats interesting. what was weird was I ordered the light then a week later ordered mounts. I got the mounts a week before I got the light. I think if I order another light it will be from deal extreme.
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Ben or Uncle Buck, where can I get Red Dykem locally?
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if you ever are heading to cabelas you can stop at MSC's distribution warehouse and pick some up. It is located right at the split in I78 and I81. I got some if ya need it tim.
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Tim, I have a whole bottle here
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Got mine on the web..However looks like Ben's a better and easier to get too source. Thanks Ben I will have to remember that when I need some more...Stuff does work great by the way... Makes any good white light an outstanding shooting light...
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http://www1.mscdirect.com/content/aboutmsc/allstates.html#Pennsylvania
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=MSC+Industrial+Supply&hl=en&cd=1&ei=ugqaTJLhEIjMygSPu_zKBg&sig2=DNlgyj3QJIhJdFpb5ZMJvg&sll=40.445575,-76.5272&sspn=0.015448,0.041199&ie=UTF8&t=h&view=map&cid=9951624287037475118&ved=0CC4QpQY&hq=MSC+Industrial+Supply&hnear=&z=16&iwloc=A
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Here was my web source should anyone desire to order on the web.. I would prefer what Ben did. Can't remember if they charged me for hazardous material shipment. Anyway it's yet another source for Dykem.
http://www.sri-supplies.com/multi-products.cfm/category_id/4302
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Ben or Uncle Buck, where can I get Red Dykem locally?
He just wants to paint his toenails with it anyway!!
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:o
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Thanks guys. I appreciate the links. I may take you up on that Ben. I like your Butler Creek idea so much I am going to do the same. As far as my tonails go. Can't paint them with Dykem until the purple wears off. ;D
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I think I have a spay can also. What are you guys using that stuff on. I can mail it if I find it, just let me know.
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Do not spray that crap in the house....just a friendly warning.
Dykem is messy,I found that Krylon X-Metals red works better,sparys on clear red and it wont eat your lungs.....
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X metals clouds plastic lenses though and gives it a extreme matte finish.
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X metals clouds plastic lenses though and gives it a extreme matte finish.
I'm sure it does but we are talking about glass........
Here's a few sprayed with Krylon X-metal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/tnpnt1/IMG_0328.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/tnpnt1/IMG_0344.jpg)
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ultramag
That looks good in the picture, does the Krylon X metal go on smooth with an even finish. Dykem always use to give me light and dark areas and was hard to spray and ran if you were not real careful. I can not tell in your picture how even it is but it seams to look even.
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yes,the pics dont do it any justice.I know what you mean about dykem,the krylon does not pool like that. It's also a "high" temp paint so I spray it on the inside of the lens to keep it from getting scratched.
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I use the liquid kind. steer clear of the spray.
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That looks sweet Ultramag. Can you get that stuff at any hardware store?
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Walmart sells it....
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When I use Dykem. I heat up the lens with a hair drier first. It help to dry it faster and keeps it from running.
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Good tip Swarter thank you for sharing that..
I don't have to tell you this but....Make sure you wear some rubber gloves when you brush it on for obvious reasons..
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if you do get it on you acetone that your wife uses to take finger nail polish off should get it off. we have dykem remover here at work so I use that.