PPHA Forums
Predator Hunting => Night Hunting => Topic started by: war_nrg on October 05, 2010, 08:15:56 PM
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Greetings,
FYI
I purchased both the 100 and the 250 at the expo, no problems with the 250 but the 100 was "flickering" on me. Made sure all the externals were tight, still flickered. Took the back cap off cause it appeared to be in the push button switch, sure enough it was. If your having the same problem, take the back cap off, there is a metal "ring" around the spring in the cap with 2 indents in it, take a pair of scissors, using the points of the scissor tighten that ring. Mine was loose, once tightened, it cured the problem.
Cheers,
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Thanks for the info. I'm trying to order two as we speak. What is the name on the manufacture.
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muttbuster
Contact - Jeremiah
Link
http://boondock-outdoors.com/
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BW, I already talked to Jeremiah. I just can't remember who makes the light. What does you'rs have printed on the side?
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muttbuster
http://www.elusivewildlife.com/index.php?section=1
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Thanks BW
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hey guys ive been lookin for a new light and have been reading alot about these they seem to have some mixed reviews i was just wondering how you guys like them. i have the primos 250yd light now and im kinda gettin tired of luggin 20lbs of batteries with me and fooling with wires...how would you guys say the kill compairs to the primos yardage wise picking up eyes and IDing
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IMO there is no comparison. The Kill light is the way to go especially because there is no wire and heavy batteries.
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hey guys Ive been lookin for a new light and have been reading alot about these they seem to have some mixed reviews i was just wondering how you guys like them. i have the primos 250yd light now and im kinda gettin tired of luggin 20lbs of batteries with me and fooling with wires...how would you guys say the kill compairs to the primos yardage wise picking up eyes and IDing
First I would like to say something about the Primos 250 light...It's not to hard to disconnect the wires when you get back to your vehicle so it's a bit of a pain but not real bad..It will not light up a predator at 250 yards...So when you do use it you better make sure you know it's a fox and or coyote.. I do like it because all of the predator could not see me behind the Primos 250 light..They just kept coming in.. Maybe to much coming in.. LOL LOL
However the Kill 250.... is light in weight and you can still hide behind the red beam. Also the Primos light near cost as much as the Kill Lights??????
Remember the more weight you do have out there...All of that fights and hinders you in your shooting.. This KILL Light 250 is going to work out so nice from the proper shooting rest...
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ill be ordering my kill light from jeremiah tonight thanks guys
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has anyone had a problem with the car charger plug being to big for the charger?
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Yes, I think thats why they are no longer included,
I found a different plug that does fit, It also has a 12v output
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Yes, I think that's why they are no longer included,
I found a different plug that does fit, It also has a 12v output
Now a person does have to watch what kind of plug they do use, right? Some plugs are for charging while others are for playing devices? I made sure when I purchased a plug to play my FX5 from Radio Shack a 12 volt battery that it was the type that played devices and was not totally for charging devices????????? Over the years I have inherited so many types of charging and play back cigarette plugs that I now keep each in a ziplock storage bag marked just what they belong too.. I even have them for vacuum cleaners, flash lights etc..Stereo and CD players etc etc etc..
What a shame it would be to cook a near $700.00 Foxpro FX5 because one used the wrong kind of cigarette plug..
Like wise on the add on speaker for the FP products.. Funny...I wanted to know the rating on a Johnny Stewart speaker so I could use it on the FP. I did go to Hunter Specialties and ask just what the JS speaker rating was? I did not tell them why I wanted to know. I never did get a response back from them... But I did see the rating on the Lohman CD speaker and it was acceptable for use with the FP FX5 caller and it does work fine.. So yep even adding too big of a speaker can wreck and expensive caller..
Sometimes I need to pick one of the electrician brains on here when I'm having lunch with them. The rating for FP is 4 or less I think? 4 or less what???? LOL Also Jacks...What does one look for on the jack to know if and what it will work for all the kinds of devices one has> thank God that JS products say as big as day JS on the back or FP on the back..
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I use my preymaster speaker on my fx5 UB. next time send an email to steve dillon and see if it is compatible. I am willing to bet that he would have the answer for ya.
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Ben I'm sure Joe and or Steve or even Mike would have responded... See I went to Hunter Specialties which is a competitor. But your right since that time I have used the Preymaster speaker for my FX5 also..One reason people should hold on to their other callers.. even my FP model 38 accepts both of these speaker.. The Preymaster and the Lohman...
Funny about the cheap Lohman CD box caller... You never knew when you walked down wind of it if it was going to play correctly..Sometimes you had to walk all the way back to it and click it on and off again to see if it would work.. In the mean time you busted yourself...
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Just to let anyone know that got the light off of Jerimiah he is getting me the right one for me. So if they are wrong get ahold of him to get the right one.
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any one know if there is a differant scope mount i can buy or a way i can jimmy rig one up my kill light doesnt clear the end of my scope it needs to be mounted higher.....and id rather not mount it on my barrel if at all possible
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You can turn the Kill Light mount to the side of the scope.. It doesn't have to be on the top. just make sure you place it on the side based on how you shoot... LH or RH so it's doesn't cause conflict on how you hold or carry your firearm.
I have an clamp that came with a Mossberg shotgun combo.. Make sure when you buy a combo shotgun and there is a clamp for shipping keep it because it makes an excellent light holder on scopes...It don't look nice but it works nice.. Holds the scope light real high.. However I would think with the Kill Light mounts, just mount it on the side of the scope instead of straight up and down ..It still going to light up the predator..
The two mounts that come with the XLR 250...Which ones do you all prefer for the scope? The one that comes with the dove tails on it.. Would you mount that on the scope or on the light? A's you know you could add extra gear to this particular light holder...Maybe a white light or a Kill Light 100, maybe two XLR 250's, or where legal a laser..
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any one know if there is a differant scope mount i can buy or a way i can jimmy rig one up my kill light doesnt clear the end of my scope it needs to be mounted higher.....and id rather not mount it on my barrel if at all possible
For mounting a kill light on a Mueller 4x16x50,I used the supplied mount that came with the kill light and then took two weaver all steel top mount bases.(#48234). Mated them back to back with bolts nuts and lock washers. A few drops of lock tight and some epoxy. For the scope I used simmons 1"matte high rings(#49172). I got between 1/4 and 3/8 clearance between the bell of the light and the bell of the scope. And this set up is removable too. I can use the same light on other guns also. I'm gonna use burris mounts for the scope and there shoud be enough room for both at the forward position.
Note~you can also weld the bases together. Bevel the edges and tig weld them. (didn't have a tig welder)
A halo shield might be needed but I see what it looks like after it's put together
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Something to check out if new scope rings could be an option. Burris makes a ring called Xtreme tactical rings, they go onto a Weaver type base, have six top screws to tighten down top half of ring they are pretty long in constructio. Lot of surface are to contact scope. I had put a set on a Turkey gun used for blockshoots. With standard Weaver rings I had trouble holding zero the new rings fit that. They come in all different heights, 1" or 30 mm. The nice feature is, you can buy a new top ring half that has a Weaver base built right on it. You would just about have the same surface as your standard base 2 piece base just about an inch long. Pro's Your scope should never come loose if used on a shotgun, With the base built right on the top ring half you can mount to the ring base and not on your scope tube. Con's they are little bulky, compared to alot of other rings. The weight is not bad to the aluminum construction. They are alittle more pricey. You could get 50 or 60 bucks just in rings and new top half depending which gun shop you deal with. I have 3 sets of these rings 1 on my 221 for night hunting, one on a 700 varmt 223 and a set for a Rem. 870.
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I guess I should've looked through the forum before I made last post. On gear bag pg. 2 of 17 Rem scope. ZDF has the Midway site and product # for the very Burris product I just described. Sorry for post.